Friday, June 06, 2008

Let the Midnight Special shine its light on me


I seem to be on a transportation kick right now, so I will persevere in that vein. While on my last blog I decried cycling only because of the egomania of certain cyclists who, as many comments correctly attested to, somehow don’t feel that the rules of the road apply to them.

I also dismissed buses with utter disdain. I can honestly say I have never been on a bus anywhere at any time of which I didn’t want to get off at the earliest possible inst.

Airplane travel has become loathsome and grows increasingly more so by the day.

Ships and boats are quite lovely and I have been on a cruise, but I have no desire to get on one of those floating small cities just so I can share some ghastly eruption of the bowels along with everybody else on the craft. I only want to travel first class on the new Queen Mary, since I am too young to have travelled on the Normandie prior to World War Two. It was evidently close to heaven afloat.

So, I am going to now go to my absolutely favorite and most cherished form of humanity-shifting – the train!

I love trains and have done so since I was a very young child and would lie in bed at night at my grandparents’ house and hear the mournful and excruciatingly lonely (Hank Williams had that right) whistle of a CN or Great Northern train as it made its way through the misty darkness of Burnaby’s central valley on it’s way to Vancouver’s Main Street Station. That sweet sad song has never left my consciousness.

I only wish that one could travel from continent to continent by rail, and such a think could only be surpassed by Star Trek Transporter. To be ‘beamed up’ would be sheer heaven.

I’ve made a few memorable train journeys in my life. But even the not so memorable (as in Woody Allen’s comment about sex: “Even when it’s bad it’s still pretty good.”) were quite all right.

Here are my favorite rail journeys:

- Norwich to Great Yarmouth in the little BR (in those days) local commuter, two-or-three coaches long shuttle, which passes through some inviting Broadland scenes and then emerges from the woods and pastures to the wide expanse of Breydon Water as it nears Yarmouth.

- Across Canada, Vancouver to Montreal with full bedroom accommodation. Just sit and gaze out the window and watch the entire country go by. The Rockies by train cannot be excelled.

- San Diego to LA. A heavenly coastal journey through some smashing southern California scenery. I’d make that trip again in a heartbeat.

- Munich to Vienna on the then still existing Orient Express. Not a single spy on the train, alas.

- Grenoble to Lyons to Lille to Brussels on the SNCF. From well in the south of France to Northern Belgium in a trice on the most fabulous train I’ve ever encountered. The French may not do everything right (with the notable exceptions of foodstuffs and potables and a Café Au Lait in a sidewalk café) but they sure know how to run a railroad – other than when they’re on strike, every 20 minutes or so.

- London to Edinburgh. Have done that a few times over the years, and never grew weary of the trip.

- Eurostar from Brussels to London via Chunnel. Nothing else needs be said other than to note that the trackbeds in Belgium and France are infinitely superior to those in the England.

- The E&N from Courtenay to Victoria. Antiquated, mechanically unreliable, often late, but the great guys in the train crew make the trip memorable, not to mention the scenery. The breathtaking view of Niagara Canyon on the Malahat near Victoria makes the entire trip worthwhile.

There are others. Maybe you’ve had some great railroad journeys, as well. Would love to hear about them.

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14 Comments:

Blogger Echomouse said...

Hmmm....spectacular all of it AND you've given me an idea. Thank you :)

12:38 PM  
Blogger thailandchani said...

Trains.. yes, yes, yes! Absolutely!

1:20 PM  
Blogger Ellee Seymour said...

I wish I had had as many adventures as you have enjoyed. And cruises aren't as bad as you made out. I have booked us one for next year because it is so relaxing and I can take my mother with us. Surprisingly, our teenage boys enjoyed it too.

2:06 PM  
Blogger Laura Jane Williams said...

In Sri Lanka, the train up to the hills in Kandy is MAGNIFICENT! Suddenly, it gets so green and lush... oh the memories I thought I had forgotten!

2:23 PM  
Blogger Ellee Seymour said...

I'd love to hear one of your BBC interviews, btw.

2:53 PM  
Blogger Leslie Hawes said...

Platform 9 3/4 to Hogwart's...

4:54 PM  
Blogger meggie said...

I would love to travel in the Indian Pacific here. I think it is a 3 night trip, & is said to be great.

5:38 PM  
Blogger Tanya Brown said...

This doesn't have a blessed thing to do with your post, but I saw this and thought of your distaste for clowns:

http://lh3.ggpht.com/abramsv/SEnSEjxvlaI/AAAAAAAATwY/4WshnXlyuLE/s1600-h/074_pics.jpg

Fascinating post -

10:38 PM  
Blogger jmb said...

I love trains too and have blogged about it before. An Indian friend said but jmb you would quickly lose your love of train travel in India.

My two longest train journeys were one, Vancouver to Ottawa in the roomette you described but with two children and two adults. But I loved it anyway. The other was London to Stockholm, long before the chunnel so you had to change to the ferry then get back on the train. I think it was three or four days, can't remember which. Coach by day and sleeper by night with six bunks and men and women together!

12:14 AM  
Anonymous Anonymous said...

My train trips haven't been quite that nice. In fact on one (Charlottesville, VA to Atlanta as I recall) felt pretty much like a bus ride.

4:44 PM  
Blogger laughingwolf said...

yesssssssssss :)

couple of songs: 'canadian pacific', and lightfoot's 'canadian railroad trilogy'...

7:06 PM  
Blogger John said...

Every time I read about trains I get frantic at the thought of the effing butchery that was unleashed on the rail network in the UK in the 60s. Absolutely unforgiveable. If you walk in the coutryside you will come across railway embankments, minus rails (all melted down now), lovely bridges, tunnels, all now unused and getting more and more derelict. So sad, so uneccesary. Here's an example of a granite (ex-railway) bridge across a small lochen I fish in in Scotland.

8:10 AM  
Blogger heartinsanfrancisco said...

I have made the run from San Diego to Union Station in L.A. many times. In several places, the tracks run right along the beach.

NY to Miami is also quite fascinating, but my most anthropologically interesting was a Third Class Spanish Train from Paris to Madrid. Some of my fellow passengers were chickens and a goat, and whole families ate salami and baguette from huge picnic hampers.

1:29 PM  
Blogger Jazz said...

Trains are so civilized aren't they....

9:39 AM  

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